Technical Library - CMC Technical Seminar

Other Technical Articles:

Issue 7

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not For The Faint-Hearted Part 4

Issue 9

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not for the Faint-Hearted Part 6

Issue 9

Andrew Turvey's Technical Topics

Issue 20

Issue 30

Ron then talked about alternators and the correct way to upgrade your E-type to an alternator, or uprated alternator, (necessary if you are fitting a Kenlowe cooling fan). The latest types give an output of 70+ amps (compared with 25-30 amps for the original dynamo and 35 amps for the original 11AC alternator). He stated that it is important not to wire the high output alternators via the ammeter, as the original cabling is not up to it: change the ammeter for a voltmeter. For the purists, Ron showed one of the new retro alternators, housed in a dynamo casing (photo 2).

The session concluded with one of the group asking Ron's advice on the possible cause of an ignition warning light not extinguishing, even though the battery was being charged correctly. Ron suggested a check of the warning light control unit, located near the battery and looking similar to a direction indicatorflasher unit.

As a final comment, we discussed the fact that with the original alternator set-up on the Series I 4.2 cars (11AC alternator with 4TR control unit), the ignition warning light was wired to an engine oil pressure switch, so was actually an oil pressure light!

Trimming & Upholstery-Tom

Our group then moved into the trim area for our session on trim and upholstery. Tom showed us the best adhesive to use for fixing trim, rubber seals etc: Trim Adhesive A2338 orA0026 (from MarTrim Ltd, 01270 767771 )-clean off with White Spirit.

Tom then described his pet method for cleaning and restoring leather-Ariel Non Bio (photo 3)!

Work the solution in with a sponge, then rinse with warm water, then seal with leather sealer (Frost's), then apply leather cream (Gliptone or Connolly - apply & leave overnight, no need to rub in). For cleaning of vinyl trim, Tom recommends the use of G101 Autosmart.

I then enquired how to repair the headlining under my Webasto roof which has dropped down; without further ado, Tom led the group outside to my car and promptly showed me how to simply remove the Webasto vinyl roof from the front fixing in order to access the headlining.

We then had a general chat and look around at some of the 'priceless' cars CMC have in their workshops at any one time, while we waited for the first lunch sitting to arrive back from the local. It was then our turn to move off in a convoy of cars into Bridgnorth for lunch. I remembered this pub from last year, amazing value for money (two meals for the price of one)!

Suspension & handling - Baz

The first of our afternoon sessions started with suspension and handling. Baz Cope, whom I had met previously on the first £-type Club tour, explained some of the basics of suspension set-up and how to check for wear. He gave a simple explanation of camber & castor (photo 5); I

never really understood this until now. He demonstrated how to check the set-up with a simple bubble level from Automart (photo 6).

Baz then discussed shock absorbers, or dampers to give them their correct name. He demonstrated (on a nearby E-type) how to check by pushing down on the car and observing it return up from its depressed position and settle.

The merits of different manufacturers' dampers were discussed and were summarised as follows:

Koni - need to remove from car to adjust

Spax-can adjust on car

Jaguar-OKfornormal road use Baz went on to discuss how to set your E-type up for track day use:

Front  suspension  -  fit  uprated  torsion  bars  &  dampers.

Polybushes may be a bit firm for normal road use, but are great for

the track. If you uprate the anti-roll bar, it sharpens the steering but

provokes understeer.

Rear suspension -fit uprated springs and dampers.

While discussing the rear suspension unit, Baz pointed out that the trailing arms actually locate the suspension subframe. Camber is set by shims on the inner CV joint: CVs must be checked & greased. Rear brake pads can be changed (just) with the suspension in situ, but it is often easier to 'drop' the whole suspension unit from the car (photo 7).

Welding-Tim

Our final session of the day was with Tim, who started by explaining how the E-type's complex body/chassis structure works in harmony to provide immense strength, distributing forces along the front frames and through the sills - and how this could be upset by sleeving frames in order to repair. However, although you must not attempt to weld the frames (1300C), they can be brazed (600C). It's OK to weld the'picture frames', as they are mild steel.

Tim stated that the frames were originally constructed from Reynolds 528 Chrome Molybdenum steel tubing, selected because of its immense strength and lightness. To illustrate the point, he passed round a sample of T25 (a modern tubing which can be welded) & Reynolds 528: the T25 was much, much heavier.

Tim then showed us an outer sill that had been removed from a 'respectable-looking' (on the surface) E-type; by peeling back layers, he showed that there were no less than five outer sill sections that had been welded on over the years to 'patch the car up' (photo 8).

Tim explained that the inner sill is in fact part of the floorpan and this should be borne in mind in any restoration, in order to preserve the strength of the structure.

The session finished with a look over the 'Lofty England' E-type, currently under painstaking restoration at CMC. We then all bade our farewells and headed for home.

As with last year's Technical Seminar at CMC, I found this to be of immense benefit and fantastic value for money, it is a privilege to be able to watch and learn from the team at CMC: their knowledge, energy and passion are inspirational.

Issue 30

Issue 33

Issue 33

Issue 32

Issue 31

Issue 34

Issue 36

Page 1

Page 2 

Page 3 

Issue 37

Page 1

Page 2 

Page 3