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K&N: Q&A - Bumper rubber solution, Sparkless when hot

Other Technical Articles:

Issue 7

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not For The Faint-Hearted Part 4

 

Issue 9

Mitchell, Peter. Restoring An E-type - Not for the Faint-Hearted Part 6

 

Issue 9

Andrew Turvey's Technical Topics

 

Issue 20

Griffin, Tim, CMC Column "Substructure Fabrication" (July, 2006)

 

Issue 24

K&N E Q&A:

Gear change gremlins

Starting Woes

 

Issue 25

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey "The Slammer: Doors"

 

Issue 25

K&N E Q&A:

Series I Not stopping

series I Slow Revver

 

Issue 26

K&N E Q&A:

Petrol Tank Puzzle SII, SI Electrical Check (January 2007)

 

Issue 27

K&N E Q&A:

The Editor's fizzing..., Overdriving E-type?, Stud breaker (February 2007)

 

Issue 28

K&N E Q&A:

All tanked up..., E-towing, Spokes in the wheel

Issue 28

CMC Column

Burning old fossil, by Andrew Turvey

 

Issue 29

K&N E Q&A:

V12 Exhaust Fumes, Noise from Under Car, Series II Missing Parts (March 2007)

Issue 30

K&N Q&A:

Handbrake hassle, Soft-top mystery

Issue 30

Newman, Denis "Experts' Wrinkles: The Club Technical Seminar at CMC" (April, 2007)

Q I have recently bought an E-type (4.2 Coupe 1965) and I am in the process of rebuilding after a respray. I have a problem in knowing the best way to fit the rubber strip to the bumpers. Should the rubber strip be glued to the bumper edge before fitting the bumper? Any advice you can offer will be much appreciated. Clive Hampson

 

 

A Before attempting to fit the rubber sealing strip, make sure that the bumpers will fit properly on the mountings - they should sit quite close to the body with an even gap throughout the curve of the bumper. Too little gap will distort the rubber strip whilst too large a gap will allow the rubber to drop out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We do not recommend gluing the strip to the bumper, because the glue edge tends to show (as even the cleanest glues darken with age), resulting in a dirty line along the bumper.

Use masking tape to hold the top edge of the strip onto the bumper whilst you are tightening the mounting bolts, making sure that the strip is trapped around the curve of the leading edge at the side.
Q I have an early 3.8 Roadster which has recently developed a strange ignition fault. It starts quite readily from cold but, as soon as it warms up on the road, the engine will suddenly cut out and will not re-start. I have found that there is no spark from the HT leads when the fault occurs. I have checked that all the electrical connections are clean and tight, with 12 volts showing at the coil terminal. Yet if I leave it for an hour it will start up and run for a few more miles before cutting out once more. I have replaced the HT leads, coil, cap and rotor arm and checked that the points are clean and correctly gapped but the problem still persists-any ideas?

A We would suggest that you have a closer look at your contact set. Check that the surfaces are not heavily pitted and sooty, indicating a possible condenserfailure.

 

If the surfaces look OK then check the moving contact arm on the pivot post. Occasionally the arm can bind up on the post when the engine warms up - either due to a lack of lubrication or the hole in the plastic points pivot being slightly too small, causing it to stick. This fault can easily be missed, because by the time you have gained access to the points to give them a flick with a small screwdriver the offending part has cooled sufficiently to become free again!

Fit a new set of points and check that the pivot is not too tight -ease the hole with a fine needle file if necessary as the quality of some pattern parts can vary - and sparingly lubricate the pivot with light oil to prevent the fault recurring.

Issue 33

K&N Q&A 'SUs for V12s, Bung it here...'

Issue 33

CMC Colume by Andrew Turvey, "The Low-down".

Issue 32

K&N Q&A: Well Oil be Dammed.., Off With His Head!

Issue 31

K&N Q&A: Bumper rubber solution, Sparkless when hot.

Issue 34

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Fitting Doors

Issue 36

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: Bonnet Gaps

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Issue 37

CMC Column by Tim Griffin: The Reliable Formula

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